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               PETER PAN BAKERY

Peter Pan Bakery (727 Manhattan Avenue, 718-389-3676) was established more than 62 years ago in the then predominately Polish neighborhood of Greenpoint (and Polski Meat Market still holds court across the street), when the Dodgers still called Brooklyn home. It would be hard to fathom the shop existing anywhere else in the city. It's a neighborhood spot that locals hold dear, a place that new residents go as a rite of passage, and a tasty destination for those not lucky enough to live close by.

Donnna Siafakas and her husband Christos took the bakery over 30 years. The couple first met while working together Donnna as a college stunted and part time worker and Christos as a baker at an another, now-shuttered doughnut house. At Peter Pan, they haven't messed with At Peter Pan, they haven't messed with much, including the design, which hearkens back to the year the place first opened. The black and white signs listing the pricing for doughnuts are original, as is the shelving. There are no tables; the fantastic S-shaped counter is intimate, and it makes you become friends with those sitting next to you. And you'll be attended to by girls in I Love Lucy-esque green and pink dresses. "Everyone always thinks we're a Polish restaurant, but it's only because our girls are Polish," says Donna. (Both Donna and the original owners are Italian.)

While the Pan opens its doors at 4:30 a.m. on weekdays and closes at 8 p.m., it is basically a 24-hour operation. The first doughnuts for the day are baked around 2 a.m., and Donna says the shop is actually quite busy at 4:30, because people getting off their overnight shifts and many employees of local state departments from around the area drop by then.